How to Measure Your Refrigerator Space Before You Buy

Measure the Opening First, Then the Appliance

Before you order or buy a replacement refrigerator, measure the space where it will go, not the old refrigerator itself. The opening in your cabinetry or wall is what matters—a new unit that is even half an inch too wide will not fit, no matter how perfect it looks in the showroom. Measure the width, height, and depth of the empty space with the doors open and any trim removed.

Write down three numbers: the width of the opening from wall to wall (or cabinet edge to cabinet edge), the height from floor to the lowest obstruction above (a soffit, cabinet, or ceiling), and the depth from the back wall to the front edge of the counter or cabinet face. Measure twice. A metal tape measure is more reliable than a cloth one for this job.

Key Takeaways

• Measure the empty space where the refrigerator will sit, not the old appliance, because cabinet openings vary and new units come in standard sizes that may not match your old one.
• Take three measurements—width, height, and depth—and record them in writing so you do not rely on memory when shopping.
• Account for door swing by measuring from the back wall to the front of the counter, and check that cabinet doors or walls will not block the refrigerator door when it opens.
• Subtract at least one-half inch from your opening measurements when comparing to refrigerator dimensions, because units need clearance to slide in and out.
• Check the depth of your kitchen floor plan for the freezer compartment and ice maker water line, because some models extend further back than others.

Width: Account for Cabinet Trim and Handles

Measure the width of the opening at three points—top, middle, and bottom—because older kitchens sometimes have slightly uneven cabinet frames. Use the smallest of the three numbers as your maximum width. If your cabinets have trim or molding around the opening, measure the inside edge of that trim, not the outer edge.

Remember that refrigerator handles add 1 to 2 inches to the overall width. A refrigerator listed as 35 inches wide is 35 inches from the back of the unit to the front of the handle. If your opening is exactly 36 inches, that unit will fit, but you will have almost no room to spare and no clearance for the door to open fully. Subtract at least half an inch from your opening measurement to give yourself working room.

Height: Check for Soffits and Obstructions Above

Measure the height from the floor to the lowest point above the opening—this might be a soffit (the boxed-in area above cabinets), a cabinet shelf, or the ceiling itself. Measure at the front of the opening and at the back, because the space sometimes slopes or narrows. Use the smaller number.

Standard refrigerators range from 66 to 70 inches tall, and counter-depth models are usually 84 to 85 inches when you include the handle. If your opening is 68 inches and you have a soffit at 69 inches, a standard refrigerator will fit, but a tall model will not. Leave at least half an inch of clearance above the unit for air circulation and to avoid scraping the finish.

Depth: Measure to the Counter Edge, Not the Back Wall

Depth is where most people make mistakes. Measure from the back wall to the front edge of your counter or cabinet face—this is the depth your refrigerator must fit within. Do not measure to the back wall alone, because the refrigerator needs to sit flush with your counter line.

Standard refrigerators are 30 to 32 inches deep (measured from the back of the unit to the front of the handle). Counter-depth models are 24 to 27 inches deep and sit flush with your cabinetry. If your opening is 30 inches deep and you install a standard 32-inch refrigerator, the door will stick out into your kitchen and block traffic. Measure carefully, and if you are unsure, choose a counter-depth model—they cost more but solve depth problems.

Check Door Swing and Clearance Around the Unit

Open the refrigerator door fully and measure how far it swings into the room. If a wall, cabinet, or doorway is directly to the side, the door may not open past 90 degrees, which makes it hard to remove shelves or reach the back. Measure the distance from the front of the refrigerator opening to any obstruction on the side where the door opens.

Also check whether the refrigerator door will hit a kitchen island, peninsula, or opposite wall when open. Some kitchens are tight enough that a refrigerator with a door that swings to the left works, but one that swings to the right does not. Many refrigerators have reversible doors, but not all—check the manual or product page before you buy if your space is narrow.

Account for Water Line and Electrical Outlet Placement

If your new refrigerator will have an ice maker or water dispenser, you need a water line running to the back of the unit. Measure the distance from the nearest water source (usually under the sink) to where the refrigerator will sit. The water line typically runs along the floor or inside the wall, but if it does not exist, you will need to have one installed by a plumber.

Check the location of the electrical outlet behind or beside where the refrigerator will go. The outlet should be within 3 to 4 feet of the unit so the power cord reaches comfortably. If the outlet is on the wrong wall or too far away, you may need an electrician to add one. Do not use an extension cord for a refrigerator—it is a fire hazard and voids the warranty on most units.

Write Down Your Measurements and Compare to Product Specs

Create a simple list with your three measurements: width, height, and depth. Subtract half an inch from each to account for clearance and installation room. When you look at a refrigerator online or in a store, find the product specifications sheet (usually a PDF on the manufacturer's website or retailer's page) and compare your numbers to the unit's dimensions.

The spec sheet lists the refrigerator's width, height, and depth, and also shows the depth with the door open and the depth with the handle included. Make sure the unit you choose fits within your space with at least half an inch to spare on all sides. If the numbers are close, measure your space one more time before you order—a mistake at this stage is expensive to fix.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my opening is smaller than any refrigerator I can find?

Counter-depth refrigerators are the shallowest option at 24 to 27 inches deep. If your opening is still too small, you may need to remove or relocate cabinetry, which requires a carpenter or contractor. Some kitchens have custom-built spaces that do not match standard appliance sizes—measure first to know whether this is your situation.

Can I remove the refrigerator feet or legs to make it shorter?

No. The feet are not removable, and removing them would damage the unit and void the warranty. The height listed in the specifications is the final height. If your space is too short, you need a different model or a different location.

Do I need to account for the thickness of my flooring?

Yes, if you are replacing a refrigerator in a kitchen where the flooring has been replaced or raised since the cabinets were installed. Measure from the actual floor surface where the refrigerator will sit, not from the subfloor. If your kitchen has a thick tile or stone floor, it can add an inch or more to the height of the space.

What if the refrigerator is slightly wider than my opening?

Do not force it. A refrigerator that is too wide will not slide in, and trying to install it can damage the cabinetry, the appliance, and your kitchen. If the unit is only a quarter inch too wide, you might remove cabinet trim or have a carpenter shave the frame, but this is expensive and not worth the risk. Choose a unit that fits your space.

Should I measure my old refrigerator to compare?

No. Your old refrigerator may be a different size than what fits your space now, especially if the cabinetry has been modified or if you are moving to a new kitchen. Measure the opening, not the old appliance. The opening is the only number that matters for your new unit.